Okay, the warm weather has finally hit and time for some serious summer sewing. That means knit tops, in my books. Find a pattern that you like, buy the yardage in several colours, and start sewing. Even a slow sewer can make a t-shirt in an evening. Set aside one day for this and you can have three or four done. Add a basic pair of white or tan shorts, or a skirt if that is your style, and you have some new clothes to wear.

One pattern I have made several times is Kwik Sew 2054. Another one I am going to try is Burda 3197. If you have watched Sandra Betzina's shows, you might have caught her tips for sewing t-shirts. She also had on Marcy Tilton who wrote an article for Threads a few years back, called Make a $200 T-shirt. Their tips are really good and most of them are alterations to the pattern itself before you even sew.

Click here for Kwik Sew 2054

First, check the ease in the pattern. Allow at least 4" of ease over the bust and hips. You may prefer more, especially if you are using a single knit which clings more. Next, in the waist area, add some shape if your pattern has none. Even just curving in 1" here will make a difference in the t-shirt. It will look less boxy.

Another tip I got from Sandra was one she discovered by checking out Calvin Klein's ready-to-wear. The front is longer than the back by 1/2". This is added in the bust area. So, slash your pattern front right across the bust and add 1/2" of length to the front. This is eased to the back when you sew the side seams. You won't even notice that it is there. If you are large-busted, you might want to add 1" instead of 1/2". When you think about it, the bust requires more length to go over it. It only makes sense to lengthen the front of the shirt.

Next tip, from Marcy Tilton, shape the front hem. Instead of just cutting it straight across, curve it down 1" at the centre front and taper back to nothing by the side seams. This gives a better line to the t-shirt when it is worn. Again, it will look less boxy.

Picture of Burda 3197, a great pattern!

Both Sandra and Marcy agree on this next alteration: check the front and back armholes. If they are exactly the same length, this is not good. The back of your arm requires more length than the front. So change the pattern to reflect this. Easiest way to do this is to trim off 1/4" from the front shoulder line and tape this sliver of tissue to the back shoulder line. Now the back of the armhole is 1/2" longer than the front, which is as it should be. When you do this, remember to move the dot on the sleeve, which indicates the shoulder seam, 1/2" towards the front. Then, when you sew in the sleeve, you will have 1/2" more sleeve in the back of the garment.

A t-shirt can be a wardrobe basic as seen in the wardrobe featured in Stitches Vol.5, No. 5

For how to sew a wardrobe that works, click Back on your computer to access the Wardrobe article.

So those are some pretty simple alterations that anyone can do and the result will be a better fit. As for sewing techniques which will improve the shirt, dig out that twin needle. Recently a friend and I went to a Weekenders party. Weekenders is a line of knit clothing which is all mix-and-match. It is very well-sewn and the fabrics are wonderful poly-cotton knits, both facts accounting for their tremendous success. As sewers, Mary and I were checking out the construction of the garments. We both noticed the extensive use of the twin-needle in making the t-shirt tops and the skirts. They used a wider twin-needle, at least a 4.00 mm. This produces a little ridge between the stitches which is quite attractive.

The basic t-shirt top, had a neck facing which was twin-needled right near the neckline edge and again about 1 1/2" away. These were deep facings, but the depth made the garment look more dressed up. The hems on both the sleeves and the bottom of the shirts were deep as well. Mary had a tape measure with her and these measured 2" deep, with twin-needling 1 1/2" from the fold. This extra deep hem makes everything hang better, simply by virtue of the weightier hem.

Perhaps you don't like shoulder pads, but they can improve a t-shirt dramatically. Try a small pad and either velcro it to the shoulder seam. I like to sew mine in with snaps. Then I can remove them to wash the t-shirt and I only need two pairs of shoulder pads, one white, and one black. I prefer a raglan shoulder pad, even on shirts with set-in sleeves. It gives a more natural lift to the shoulder and there is no tell-tale drop-off at the sleeve cap.

So, try making a t-shirt. Stick with one pattern and refine it until you get a shape that you can make over and over. After all, this is a basic wardrobe item and what you want is something well-fitting. You can make changes to it by altering the neckline and trying different neckline finishes. If you are fortunate enough to have a machine with fancy stitches, try some of these on the neck edge.

Threads July /96 has a good article on sewing t-shirts by Marcy Tilton Past articles in Threads can be accessed from their website at www.taunton.com

Remember, as with all knits, be sure to use a ball-point needle in order to prevent causing runs in the knit. For most knits, size 11 or 12 is the correct size. Start with a new needle so that you don't snag the knit.

So, enjoy the weather and happy sewing. Julie

Just an added note: I tried the Burda pattern and it is a great one. It has all those alterations already done to it: the front hem is shaped, the front is longer than the back, the armholes are right. Most of all, I love the scoop neckline which is not too deep. I made this one in a textured knit (Pique Q Rib from Siltex) and it is a wonderful top to wear under a summer suit.