Kathryn Brenne is a sewing instructor from North Bay, Ontario. She is a regular speaker at the Toronto Needlework Show and has been an instructor at Ready Set Sew in Halifax. She is published monthly in Vogue Patterns and she has also written for other sewing publications, including Threads magazine. Kathryn runs a sewing school at her studio in North Bay and offers in-depth workshops on a variety of subjects. For further information on Kathryn's school, visit her website at The Academy of Fine Sewing where Kathryn teaches classes in fit, sewing leather. This spring, she will be teaching a class on pant fitting with Cecelia Podolak. If you are interested, you can email Kathryn at bunch@efni.com for more information on her upcoming seminars.

Over the summer months, Kathryn made up muslins of three Jalie jean patterns as well as the Pleated Pant pattern. She has sent along photos of herself in all four pants, as well as her comments on the patterns.

"I have been searching for the perfect jean pant pattern; one that fits like my ready-to-wear jeans. Not too tight in the upper leg, fits nicely across the seat and has the right yoke, waistband and pocket details. Jalie patterns were recommended on one of the internet sewing digests that I belong to. I decided to make up all of their pants in muslin to really test out the fit and silhouette of the various styles.
Jalie patterns are produced by les Patrons JALIE Inc. from Saint-Romuald, Quebec, Canada. The patterns are printed on heavy, white paper which also includes layout and construction instructions. The patterns are meant to be used as master patterns. Thirty two sizes are inlcuded in each package! Sizes range from a child's size 2 with a hip of 21 5/8" up to a women's size 6X with a hip of 66 1/2". Jalie patterns are sized by letters. Sizing charts give equivalent USA and European sizing. Choose a size according to your hip measurement as these sizes will vary from the standardized sizing found with the Big 4 pattern companies. Check the total height measurement with the pattern measurement too as this changes with each size. I normally wear a size 8-10 ready-to-wear or European size 42. I usually sew a size 14 pant with some alterations. I sewed all of the muslins in a Jalie size X which was supposed to correspond to a USA size 16 or European 2. I did not make any personal alterations to the patterns. The Jalie size X is for someone 5'8" tall and I am 5'9".

Back view of Jalie 964 High Waist Pants for Her

Jalie 964 High waist pants front

Jalie 964 High Waist Pants side

You will want to outline your pattern size using a red pencil first before tracing off the pattern. Because all of the pattern grades are on the one pattern, it can become difficult to follow your sizing. Pin the master pattern to pattern drafting paper and trace off your size using a tracing wheel.

I found all of the patterns to be very well drafted. The patterns have been created according to industry methods. Seam allowances have been reduced to 3/8" and all pockets have the necessary facing and lining pieces. Just like your favourite ready-to-wear jeans! the jean style pant has a short front curve and a long back curve.

The pattern instructions are given in four languages: French, English, Spanish, and German. Construction techniques are similar to those used in manufacturing. The illustrations are good but the technique descriptions are brief. I didn't have any problems following the instructions but an inexperienced sewer might want to refer to the Vogue Sewing Book to reference some of the techiques.

Each of the four patterns that I tried had a slightly different fit. Patterns 964, 966 and 968 are all jean style with a back yoke and pockets. Pattern 962 is a dressier, pleated style pant. Overall I was very pleased with the fit. With no alterations, I felt that they fit great! The long back crotch curve gave a nice, comfortable fit in the seat. All four pant muslins fit really well across the seat. Pattern 964 is a high waisted slim fit pant, 966 is a relaxed fit pant with a tapered leg and 968 is a low-waisted pant with a straight leg. The waist on me was a bit loose on all of the pants. The only personal alteration that I would have to make would be to take a bit out of the waist and taper the upper hip area in slightly.

Back view of Jalie 966 Relaxed Fit

Jalie 966 Relaxed Fit front

Jalie 966 Relaxed Fit side

I noticed that the copyright on all of the patterns was 1997. I am not sure if this was the founding date of the company or the year that the pant patterns were drafted. I tend to think they were probably drafted approximately 7 years ago because of the styling. To update the styling, I would refer to the Palmer/Pletsch book Pants for Real People ISBN 0-935278-57-5 and perhaps flare the leg slightly on some of the styles. My personal favourites were 968 the low-waisted style and 964 the slim fit. Don't be concerned about the term 'low waisted'. These are not the low waisted style seen on bare midriff 16 year olds! These are very modest low waisted pants and would be comfortable and flattering on many body types.

Back view of Jalie 968 Low Waisted Pants

Jalie 968 Low Waist Jeans front

Jalie 968 Low Waist Jeans side

I liked the straight leg found on 964, the slim fit pants, however the waist really felt like it was sitting a bit too high for today's styles. This pant would be cute cropped short or lengthened and turned up in a wide cuff. It would be very nice out of one of today's cotton/stretch blends or a stretch wool. I found 966 the relaxed fit a bit too relaxed. I might prefer them with a straighter leg rather than the taper. Although 962 the pleated pant fit well, the style is dated.

Jalie 962 Pleated Pants back

Jalie 962 Pleated Pants front

Jalie 962 Pleated Pants side

Overall, I was very impressed with the quality of the patterns, the excellent fit and the value price. I would definitely recommend trying these patterns."

Back to Jalie Patterns