Lining is constructed , fronts to backs at shoulders and side seams; then sleeves are put in. It doesn't matter if the armscye seam on the lining has puckers in it, they will never be seen.

Lining is pinned to jacket, right sides together along the facings. Leave the bottom 1 ˝” at front hemline loose; this will be attached by hand later.

Cecelia gives instructions for bagging a lining by machine but I prefer to sew the hems together by hand. It really only takes about half an hour to do both the jacket hem and the sleeves. I enjoy the hand work, and I am sure then that there is enough play between the lining and the jacket hem so that pulls do not show up on the outside.

Attaching lining to jacket

To do this, after the lining has been sewn to the jacket facings by machine, you turn the lining to the inside and press the seam towards the lining. Then lay the jacket over an ironing board so that you can lay it flat. The lining should be facing you. Beginning at the center back, smooth the lining down over the jacket and pin it at the bottom. The lining should extend beyond the jacket at this point (the jacket has already been hemmed). Pin the lining all along the bottom of the hem, then turn the jacket over so that the right side of the jacket is facing you. Carefully trim away any lining that extends below the jacket. Be very careful not to cut the jacket.

Now turn the jacket again so that the lining is facing you. Take out the pins. Turn under about ˝” on the bottom of the lining, and pin it to the hem at the top of the hem. You will be covering the hemming stitches and the lining should extend below the raw edge of the jacket hem by about ˝”. Pin all along, easing in any excess lining to fit the jacket. At the front edge, where the lining joined the facing, you will have to pin the lining to look nice where it meets the machine stitching. I angle the lining down at this point so that it covers the raw edge of the facing. You could turn under the raw edge of the facing if you prefer, but I don’t like the bulk that creates. I just cover it instead with the lining. You could also do a Hong Kong finish on the bottom of that facing so that it would be nicely finished if you hem the lining higher than shown in the diagram.

Pinning lining to jacket at hem

Now slip stitch the lining to the jacket hem, taking care to attach it only to the hem, not through to the jacket. This method creates what is called a “jump hem” in the lining. After you have hemmed the lining to the jacket, you will notice that the lining is longer and forms a little pleat when it is left to hang. This provides ease in the jacket so that when you move your arms, the lining has some give in it and doesn’t rip out. It also lets the jacket and lining hang somewhat free of each other. Without that little ease pleat, your lining will cause the jacket to have pulls at the hem, since the lining is catching the jacket fabric.

Linings must be somewhat loose inside a garment, so that they allow the garment fabric to move correctly. If a lining is not loose and somewhat larger than the garment, it will cause the garment to be pulled and this shows up on the outside. The sleeves are hemmed the same way. Pin the lining around the bottom of the sleeve and trim off the excess. Then fold under the lining raw edge and slip stitch it to the sleeve hem. Again, let the lining form an “ease pleat” or “jump hem”.

Pinning sleeve linings to sleeves

The finished jacket

Starting the jacket
Welt pockets
Sleeves and shoulder pads