I find myself intrigued by the back details of a garment. Some of the most unique styling can be found on the back of a dress, vest, or jacket. Why not look as good from the rear view as from the front?

This has long been understood by brides. Since the bride's back is what is visible for most of the ceremony, you will find the most wonderful embellishments sewn onto the back of the gown.

A simple yet elegant gown with back detailing McCalls 2597 from the Spring 2000 catalog

Or perhaps it is just the drape of fabric which makes the fashion statement. I saw photos of one young woman's wedding dress: the dress looked very simple from the front; at the back were two wings of fabric which came from the waist and ended in cuffs at her wrist. When standing, the "wings" fell into lovely, soft folds across the back of the dress; when she was dancing at the reception, they were transformed into sheer wings.

A mediaeval gown by Alicyn Wright McCalls 2645 from the Spring 2000 catalog

Sometimes it is the total lack of fabric which makes the back stunning. Backless dress with mock wrap skirt McCalls 2776 from the Summer 2000 catalog

These are all patterns with the back details designed for you. But why not be your own designer? Once you have a pattern that fits, you can easily re-draft the back of the garment to incorporate some great sewing techniques. Not only will you enjoy the sewing process more, but you will receive lots of inquiries about your clothes, as you will look different from everyone else.

You don't have to have a diploma in fashion design to make some of the following changes to a pattern. Most are made by slashing the pattern into pieces, adding seam allowances where necessary, and changing the closures (or adding some where none existed before). One of my favourite back details is the big shirt with back buttons. Using a classic shirt pattern, with a back yoke, cut the lower back into two pieces. Add 3 1/2" to each opening edge, snip mark 1 1/2" from the edge, press to inside and press again. You will have 1" left over on each piece. Overlap these by 1" and sew buttons through all thicknesses. Then sew the lower back to the yoke and carry on with the pattern instructions.

A variation on this is to simply add seam allowances to both pieces, cut a 2 1/2" wide facing piece for both sides. Then sew ties or tabs to the right sides of the back pieces at the center back, sew the facings on top, and turn to the inside. The back pieces will meet at the center, instead of overlapping. You could even apply grommets to the edges and do it up with decorative lacing.

Back closures with a difference From "Make It Your Own", Personalizing Patterns for Creative Design by Lori Bottom & Ronda Chaney (a great book, published by Chilton Books)

Vests are great places to showcase back details. Instead of the usual little back belt, why not add an entire placket that is laced up with tubes of self fabric? These are not functional closures, but just add-ons that are simply there for effect. I saw a cute little waistcoat in a Burda magazine, done in gingham fabric, piped all around the edges, and on the back was a placket done up with ties. The placket was cut on the bias and had metal grommets for the ties. It was very effective.

Gingham never looked so good Burda January '94

A great book for inspiration and instructions on how to change patterns to add your own designer details is "Make It Your Own, Personalizing Patterns for Creative Design" by Lori Bottom & Ronda Chaney (published by Chilton Books). This is a book I take down often to give me ideas for new things to try. It comes in a paperback edition, so the price is quite reasonable. I was fortunate to have one given to me by my neighbour who was cleaning out her sewing room and donated many books to our sewing guild.

Any sewing questions? I would be happy to try and answer them: you can email me at mail@timmelfabrics.com